Monday, November 12, 2007

top 10 holiday detinations for year end.!!!!

Top 10: Holiday Hit List in the Subcontinent

1. Luxury in a mud hut

What's new: In the middle of one of the country's most renowned tiger reserves, an exciting and innovative safari project has started. The Taj Hotel group has teamed up with wildlife experts CC Africa to produce a series of lodges offering beautifully devised eco-friendly accommodation combined with legendary Indian service. The first camp, Mahua Kothi, in the Bandhavgarh National Park in Madhya Pradesh, opened in November. It comprises 12 kutiyas, traditional-style jungle village huts with mud-coloured walls, open rafters and roofs of handmade tiles. Facilities include swimming pool and yoga amenities, but the surrounding jungle is the real draw. The area is rich in exotic birds, crested serpent eagles, blue flycatchers and more, while elephant-back safaris provide a wonderful means of searching for tigers and seeing langur monkeys, wild boar and herds of chital deer. A second camp recently opened in Pench National Park, with more to come in the Kanha, Corbett and Panna reserves.

The deal: Such style in the wilderness does not come cheap, but the hospitality provided here is second to none. Greaves Travel (0870 850 2497; greavesindia.com) offers a seven-night trip, taking in a visit to the 10th-century Khajuraho Temples and providing four game-viewing days at Mahua Kothi. The price of £2,999 per person, based on two sharing, includes flights from Heathrow to Delhi and onward flights to Khajuraho, all land transfers, all accommodation, all meals in the jungle, game drives and elephant-back safari.

2. Beach bums with style

What's new: On the Coromandel coast of Tamil Nadu, The Dune is a chic and eco-friendly beach hotel that opened last year. Very much reflecting the sense of innovation and style of modern India, it offers accommodation in 37 strikingly designed villas spread across 30 acres of palm-filled grounds. There's both a flavour of luxury and a commitment to green awareness here, particularly at the restaurant serving fusion food based on organic produce grown in the hotel's own garden. Other facilities include a raised freshwater swimming pool dramatically set on its own platform, an Ayurvedic spa, and free yoga sessions at 7am and 5pm. If you can tear yourself away, the charming old French colonial town of Pondicherry is just nine miles away.

The deal: The Dune, Pudukuppam, Keelputhupet (00 91 413 2655 751; thedune.org) offers garden bungalows, sleeping two and cooled by sea breezes rather than air-conditioning, from R3,300 (£40) per night. More sophisticated and expensive villas with air conditioning and swimming pools are available.

3. Quick route to the Punjab

What's new: Jet Airways' direct flight from Heathrow to Amritsar in the northern Punjab brings a number of big benefits. The glorious Golden Temple of Amritsar is now within easy reach, and the flight also opens up an area of the country that was previously difficult to reach. The old city of Amritsar, founded in the 16th century, is dominated by the golden dome of the Sikhs' holiest shrine. Despite the crowds, there's a wonderfully spiritual atmosphere, and true to the religion's tradition the shrine is open to all, regardless of belief. Meanwhile, within striking distance of Amritsar are the foothills of the Himalayas. Previously, travellers from the UK had to fly first to Delhi in order to reach this area, but places such as Rishikesh, the Kulu Valley and the Dalai Lama's settlement at Dharamsala have become far easier and quicker to travel to.

The deal: Jet Airways (0870 910 1000; jetairways.com) flies direct to Amritsar from Heathrow three times a week, outgoing on Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday; incoming to London on Thursday, Friday and Sunday. Return fares in May start at about £500.

4. Celebrate by moonlight

What's new: The princely city of Jodhpur sees a different sort of glitzy action in October, with the launch of a new folk festival. The enormous Mehrangarh Fort, dating from the 15th century and perched dramatically above the old blue town, will be the venue for a great gathering of singers, dancers, drummers and more from a good 15 Rajasthani communities. This will be a celebration of both past and future: as well as offering performances of traditional music and dance, the festival will be showcasing new sounds and acts. Timed to coincide with the October full moon, the event looks set to be a vibrant riot of colour.

The deal: The Jodhpur Rajasthan International Folk Festival (jodhpurfolkfestival.org) runs from 25-29 October. Exsus Travel (020-7292 5050; exsus.com) can tailormake packages to take in the festival. For example, a week in Rajasthan during October costs £1,980 per person, based on two sharing, including flights from Heathrow to Delhi and onward air travel to Jodhpur, four nights' accommodation at the magnificent Umaid Bhawan Palace; private car to Jaipur and three nights at the Samode Haveli hotel, private car to Delhi and two nights at the Imperial Hotel.

5. Hop across to the islands

What's new: The isolated Andaman Islands, 620 miles east of Tamil Nadu, are rapidly gaining the status of hottest "new" discovery in the country. Lying closer to Burma than India, the archipelago became a remote penal settlement during British colonial rule, but the idyllic coral islands are now drawing a very different sort of visitor. With hotel facilities still fairly limited, this is very much a hippie-chic destination, and a haven for divers and snorkellers. Havelock Island, a three-hour boat ride from the small capital of Port Blair, offers particularly clear waters of an almost implausible shade of turquoise. The pristine coral reefs here support an extraordinarily vibrant range of marine life, from sharks to myriad angelfish, while further out the seas are home to shy dugong and sea turtle. The island itself offers a small choice of eco-friendly bamboo-hut resorts.

The deal: Colours of India (020-8343 3446; partnershiptravel.co.uk) offers a 14-day "Andaman Escape" package from £1,858 per person, based on two sharing, including flights from Heathrow to Chennai (via Mumbai) and onward to Port Blair, speedboat transfers and all accommodation on a b&b basis: one night in Chennai, nine nights at the Silversands Resort on Havelock Island and two nights at the Fortune Resort in Port Blair.

6. The ultimate adventure

What's new: Remote and starkly majestic, Ladakh is one of the India's least visited areas. Its haunting and challenging landscape is criss-crossed by ancient footpaths that offer breathtaking views over dramatic hills and valleys, and pass through unspoilt, well-weathered villages. Exodus has devised a new and spectacular winter trek in this far-flung region on which you walk along the frozen Zanskar River, a route used by the local people for whom it is the only access to the outside world. The trail from the appropriately named town of Chiling to the isolated village of Lingshed passes through icy gorges, takes in great frozen waterfalls and skirts towering ice peaks.

The deal: Exodus Travels (0870 950 0039; exodus.co.uk) offers this two-week holiday from £1,719 per person, based on two sharing, including flights from London to Delhi, five nights in hotels in Delhi and the Ladakh capital Leh, nine nights' camping in caves, all main meals except in Delhi, and trekking guidance.

7. Take a trip through history

What's new: This year is both the 60th anniversary of India's independence from Britain and the 150th anniversary of the Indian mutiny. Indus Tours is commemorating both events with a new historical trip in November. Led by Dr Peter Liddle of the Second World War Experience in Leeds, the tour takes in siege and battlefield sites of both the mutiny and the Second World War and also aims to give an insight into Anglo-Indian culture and life. You start in Delhi, with a tour of the city's mutiny sights, and move on to Imphal and Kohima to see the famous Second World War cemeteries and reflect on the battles of 1944 when British and Indian troops confronted the Japanese. Anglo-Indian life is then explored in the tea country of Assam (where you also visit the Kaziranga National Park to see rare one-horned rhino) and Darjeeling. The trip finishes with a tour of colonial Calcutta.

The deal: Indus Tours (020-8901 7320; indus tours.co.uk) is offering the 15-day trip from £1,885 per person, based on two sharing, including flights from Heathrow to Delhi and return from Calcutta, internal transfers by plane and private coach, all accommodation, most meals, entry fees and guidance.

8. Under canvas up a mountain

What's new: A luxury camp opens to independent travellers in the mountain wilderness of Uttaranchal in October. 360š Leti is in a breathtaking and remote location at about 8,000ft and lies about an hour's walk from the nearest road at the small village of Leti. The design of the four cottages and main lodge is chic as well as eco-friendly, and gives local building traditions a contemporary twist. This a place in which to relax, take day walks and feast on excellent meals cooked by the resident Tibetan chef, Yeshi.

The deal: In October, Cazenove+Loyd (020-7384 2332; cazloyd.com) offers a week in India, including five nights at 360š Leti. It costs from £2,039 per person, based on two sharing, and includes flights from Heathrow to Delhi, one night's b&b at the Imperial Hotel, transfer by overnight train and then car to the village of Leti, full-board at 360š Leti, with an option of a cookery lesson with Yeshi.

9. The best River cruise: Hang out on the Hooghly

This summer, seven-day cruises in elegant, steamer-style ships start on the River Hooghly between Calcutta and Farakka, allowing scope for seeing temples, rural life and colonial architecture. The cruises operate in July and August only. Coromandel (01572 821330; coromandelabt. com) offers a 14-day "Hills and Hooghly" tour from £2,675 per person, based on two sharing, including flights, transfers, all accommodation, most meals, cruise, and tour of Calcutta.

10. The best Mountain trek: Meet the village people

A charming local trekking enterprise was launched in October in the Kumaon region of the Himalayan foothills, where villages in the Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary have devised a community tourism business. Village Ways (0845 0343 399; villageways.com) offers a 12-night Culinary Ways and Culture holiday in November from £678 per person, including transfers and all meals. International travel arranged separately.

Thursday, November 8, 2007

best cruises...



Romance and cruising would seem to go hand in hand, particularly if you've spotted any of the cruise lines' glossy magazine advertisements: photos of couples admiring the bow at sunset, or sipping orange juice on their private verandah in terry clothes robes, or even -- and this one we have a hard time believing -- spending time alone on a deserted beach with their mega-ship anchored in the background.

Advertisements notwithstanding, however, cruising can be one of the most romantic vacation options, but often it's the tangibles -- onboard ambiance and lifestyle -- that are more likely to contribute to the feeling of "amore" than an occasional sunset. Choosing the right cruise line and, even more specifically, the right ship within the fleet, can be a big challenge.

In researching our top picks, we primarily called on our own experiences of romantic voyages. Whether your definition of romantic is a party-all-night ship or ultimate pampering and luxury, you'll identify with the criteria we have used in evaluating the best choices. For instance? A cozy cabin with a great bathroom -- and a private verandah -- is an absolute necessity. We prefer dining a deux (or at least the option to eat when and with whom we choose). Lounges with soft lighting are nice. And one more? Almost-private open-deck spaces for star gazing.

Princess Cruises

Best Ships: Crown Princess, Emerald Princess

Why: While we like any of Princess' Grand Class vessels for their blend of big ship options and small ship cozy, Crown Princess and Emerald Princess, the fleet's newest, offer some first-time-ever features.

Stay Here: Both boast the line's traditionally high percentage of suites and mini-suites (which means booking a bigger cabin may not be too much of a splurge). The "piece de resistance" is the Grand Suite, which features separate sitting area, balcony that stretches between living room and bedroom, and a fabulous whirlpool tub. But even the standard mini-suite is charming and comfortable.

Out on Deck: What could be more romantic than a night at "Movies Under the Stars," a retro drive-in where you recline on padded loungers (you can snuggle under the wool tartan blankets)? During the day we love The Sanctuary. A completely new invention, The Sanctuary is a (mostly) shaded zen-like retreat, complete with waiter service, spa menu and massage services (a couples' massage is available).

Indoor Romance: Check out the spa's couple's Rasul room (it's a mud room with steam -- and it's more fun than it sounds!). Adagio, a new concept lounge featuring a cabaret singer, is lovely and private -- way up on one of the top decks.

Dining: Open-seating (as well as traditional) dining is available. But the most romantic option -- and unique to cruising -- is the Ultimate Balcony Dining dinner experience. For $100 per couple, cruisers are treated to a lobster dinner with champagne and course-by-course service. Only caveat: Your cabin must have a balcony. We also love the ship's two specialty restaurants. Request a banquette at Crown Grill, a steak and seafood restaurant with an open grill; Sabatini's, the line's Italian eatery, should not be missed. Another favorite is Vines, the ship's wine and sushi bar.

Downside? While the ship's deluxe mini-suites are lovely and comfortable, the all-open-air balconies (applies to any cabin on Dolphin deck) are anything but private.

Special Events: All of the Grand class ships are premier options for onboard weddings. Both have dedicated wedding chapels and captains empowered to perform ceremonies -- and friends at home can watch live via Web cams!


Crystal Cruises

Best Ship: Crystal Serenity

Why: In general, Crystal is the best choice for folks who want big-ship features and small-ship luxury. In particular, while this newer ship offers many of the same features as Crystal Symphony does, the penthouse suites, the most romantic accommodations, are more plentiful.

Stay Here: The aforementioned penthouse suites, which come in three categories. All have verandahs, butler service and marble baths with Jacuzzi tubs (not to mention state-of-the-art tech toys), and are roomy enough for in-room massages. Another plus? Passengers in these staterooms can order off the menu from Crystal Serenity's fabulous specialty restaurants.

Out on Deck: Head for any of the terraced decks on the back of the ship.

Indoor Romance: Head for a private corner of the Sunset Bar (at the forward end of the Palm Court) -- it's a great spot for sunset-watching. We also love the clubby-pubby Avenue Saloon.

Dining: Try any (or all) of Crystal Serenity's specialty restaurants, such as the Northern Italian Prego and the Asian Silk Road. Or indulge in course-by-course room service on your verandah.

Downside: Crystal still maintains a set-time, assigned-tablemates scheme in its main dining rooms.

Special Events: No weddings but the ship does offer vow renewals.


Norwegian Cruise Line

Best Ships: Pride of Hawaii, Norwegian Jewel, Norwegian Pearl

Why: First and foremost, NCL's "Freestyle Dining" philosophy (passengers can dine without the hassle of assigned times and tablemates at a variety of restaurants) is perfectly suited to table-for-two travelers. A close second are the ships' Courtyard Villas. The relatively new concept (and, as such, only found on NCL's newest ships) is aimed at creating a small, boutique-style hotel within the framework of a larger resort. The villas are located away from the so-called fray -- and offer a host of special perks, from access to a fabulous Asian-inspired pool area (complete with Balinese bed and hot tub) to suite-holders-only breakfast and lunch at Cagney's.

Stay Here: The aforementioned Courtyard Villas feature separate living and sleeping rooms (there's the master bedroom and also a smaller, window-less room with bunks), flat screen television, butler service and, the best part: a swishy bathroom whose whirlpool tub is set into a picture window alcove.

Indoor Romance: Try dinner at Cagney's, the ship's steakhouse and Le Bistro, a French eatery; for drinks, the Star Bar (Pride of Hawaii) and the Plantation Club (Norwegian Jewel) are tops.

Onshore: Itinerary-wise, Pride of Hawaii wins hands down. What is more romantic than Hawaii?


SeaDream Yacht Club

Best Ship: Either of its two nearly identical 4,260-ton, 110-passenger yachts (SeaDream I and SeaDream II)

Why: These ships win top romantic honors for sophisticated couples who want luxury (phenomenal dining and great service) amidst a casual ambiance. The ships are gorgeously restored; dining is all as-you-wish; cabins, though cozy, are outfitted with state-of-the-art accouterments; and last but by no means least, service is outstanding, personable, attentive ... and subtle. They're all-inclusive, too, which means tips and all drinks (not to mention unlimited caviar) are included in your fare.

Stay Here: There are only three types of stateroom. The most romantic is, of course, the owner's suite (with a fabulous windowed bathroom). The Commodore Club suite is basically two standard cabins put together -- we actually preferred our standard accommodations. These 195-square-ft. staterooms feature separate seating areas and bedrooms, with a small but exquisitely outfitted bathroom (huge shower-for-two with three shower heads). Add to that fine linens and great mattresses on the bed, high-tech flat-screen televisions, DVD and MP3 players, and plenty of storage space.

Out on Deck: Our favorite place for sunset-timed port departures was on one of the Balinese beds on the top-most deck -- tucked around the smokestack, they are built just a bit above the deck railing, which gives you a sense of floating above the water. We also loved the Top of the Yacht bar.

Dining: There are two primary venues. The Main Dining Salon (indoors) feels like a restaurant at an elegant, small boutique hotel. But our favorite spot was the Topside Restaurant, and most meals, from breakfast to dinner, were offered here; it's an open-sided outdoor eatery (covered, though, so shaded) and there are a handful of wonderful and private nooks.

Downside? There are no cabins with balconies (but the open decks were so expansive and there were so many lovely nooks that we never missed it).


Carnival Cruise Line

Best Ships: Spirit-class vessels, including Carnival Pride, Carnival Legend and Carnival Miracle

Why: At 88,500 tons and with 2,124 passenger capacities, these ships are big enough to offer plenty of onboard variety -- but not so huge that they feel impersonal. Plus, because these ships have a high balcony ratio, it's easy -- and not at all expensive -- to nab a cabin with your own verandah. The ships are, for the exuberantly-designed Carnival, the fleet's most elegant, featuring an Art Deco scheme.

Stay Here: If you're splurging, the "penthouse suite" comes with a huge balcony and elaborate bathroom. The more affordable standard verandah cabins are pleasant, though.

Out on Deck: Go forward on Atlantic deck to the enclosed portion of the ship's exterior promenade.

Indoor Romance: Try a couples' massage at Spa Carnival. The foyer lounge and the cigar bar are the most intimate drink spots.

Dining: Bypass Carnival's assigned dining scheme at its main restaurants and head to the Spirit-class ships' reservations-only supper clubs.

Special Events: Spirit-class ships have wedding chapels (though captains are not allowed to perform ceremonies), and staffers will help arrange weddings and vow renewals.

Sunday, November 4, 2007


stay healthy while travelling in europe.......

Just as you'd give your car a good checkup before a long journey, it's smart to meet with your doctor before your trip. Get a general checkup and ask for advice on maintaining your health on the road. Obtain recommended immunizations and discuss proper care for any preexisting medical conditions while traveling. Bring along a letter from your doctor describing any special health problems and a copy of any pertinent prescriptions. If you have any heart concerns, pack a copy of a recent EKG.
Travel-medicine specialists: While I consider Europe as safe as the US, those traveling to more exotic destinations should consult a travel-medicine physician. Only these specialists keep entirely up-to-date on health conditions for travelers around the world. Tell the doctor about every place you plan to visit and anyplace you may go. Then you can have the flexibility to take that impulsive swing through Turkey or Morocco knowing that you're prepared medically and have the required shots. Ask the doctor about Havrix (a vaccine that protects against hepatitis A — see www.havrix.com), Twinrix (protects against both hepatitis A and B — see www.twinrix.com), antidiarrheal medicines, and any extra precautions. The Centers for Disease Control offers updated information on every country (www.cdc.gov/travel).
Dental checkup: Get a dental checkup well before your trip. (If you get a crown right before you leave, it's timed to fall out on the plane.) Emergency dental care during your trip is time- and money-consuming, and can be hazardous and painful. I once had a tooth crowned by a German dentist who knew only one word in English, which he used in question form — "Pain?"
Traveling Healthy
Europe is generally safe. All the talk of treating water with purification tablets is applicable only south and east of Europe. Using discretion and common sense, I eat and drink whatever I like in Europe. As our world becomes more chemical, reasons for concern and caution will increase on both sides of the Atlantic.
I was able to stay healthy throughout a six-week trip traveling from Europe to India. By following these basic guidelines, I never once suffered from Tehran Tummy or Delhi Belly.
Eat nutritiously. The longer your trip, the more you'll be affected by an inadequate diet. Budget travelers often eat more carbohydrates and less protein to stretch their travel dollar. This is the root of many nutritional problems. Protein helps you resist infection and rebuilds muscles. Get the most nutritional mileage from your protein by eating it with the day's largest meal (in the presence of all those essential amino acids). Supplemental super-vitamins, taken regularly, help me to at least feel healthy. If you have a serious dietary restriction, have a multilingual friend write it in the local language on the back of a business card and use it to order in restaurants.
Use good judgment. Avoid unhealthy-looking restaurants. Meat should be well cooked and, in some places, avoided altogether. Have "well done" written on a piece of paper in the local language and use it when ordering. Pre-prepared foods gather germs (a common cause of diarrhea). Outside of Europe, be especially cautious. When in serious doubt, eat only thick-skinned fruit...peeled.
Keep clean. Wash your hands often, keep your nails clean, and avoid touching your eyes, nose, and mouth.
Practice safe sex. Sexually transmitted diseases are widespread. Obviously, the best way to prevent acquiring an STD is to avoid exposure. Condoms (readily available at pharmacies and from rest-room vending machines) are fairly effective in preventing transmission. AIDS is also a risk, especially among prostitutes.
Exercise. Physically, travel is great living — healthy food, lots of activity, fresh air, and all those stairs! If you're a couch potato, try to get in shape before your trip by taking long walks. To keep in shape, you may want to work out during your trip. Jogging, while not as widespread in Europe as it is in the US, is not considered weird. Traveling joggers can enjoy Europe from a special perspective — at dawn. Swimmers will find that Europe has plenty of good, inexpensive public swimming pools. Whatever your racket, if you want to badly enough, you'll find ways to keep in practice as you travel. Most big-city private tennis and swim clubs welcome foreign guests for a small fee, which is a good way to make friends as well as stay fit.
Give yourself psychological pep talks. Europe can do to certain travelers what southern France did to Vincent van Gogh. Romantics can get the sensory bends, patriots can get their flags burned, and anyone can suffer from culture shock.
Europe is crowded, smoky, and not particularly impressed by America or Americans. It will challenge givens that you always assumed were above the test of reason, and most of Europe on the street doesn't really care that much about what you, the historical and cultural pilgrim, have waited so long to see.
Take a break: a long, dark, air-conditioned trip back to California in a movie theater; a pleasant sit in an American embassy reading room surrounded by eagles, photos of presidents, Time magazines, and other Yankees; or a visit to the lobby of a world-class hotel, where any hint of the local culture has been lost under a big-business bucket of intercontinental whitewash. It can do wonders to refresh the struggling traveler's spirit.
European Water
I drink European tap water and any water served in restaurants. Read signs carefully, however: Some taps, including those on trains and airplanes, are not for drinking. If there's any hint of nonpotability — a decal showing a glass with a red "X" over it, or a skull and crossbones — don't drink it. Many fountains in German-speaking countries are for drinking, but others are just for show. Look for Trinkwasser ("drinking water") or Kein Trinkwasser ("not drinking water").
The water (or, just as likely, the general stress of travel on your immune system) may, sooner or later, make you sick. It's not necessarily dirty. The bacteria in European water are different from those in American water. Our bodily systems — raised proudly on bread that rips in a straight line — are the most pampered on earth. We are capable of handling American bacteria with no problem at all, but some people can go to London and get sick. Some French people visit Boston and get sick. Some Americans travel around the world, eating and drinking everything in sight, and don't get sick, while others spend weeks on the toilet. It all depends on the person.
East of Bulgaria and south of the Mediterranean, do not drink untreated water. Water can be treated by boiling it for 10 minutes or by using purifying tablets or a filter. Bottled water, beer, wine, boiled coffee and tea, and bottled soft drinks are safe as long as you skip the ice cubes. Coca-Cola products are as safe in Syria as they are at home.
Pharmacies and Doctors
Throughout Europe, people with a health problem go first to the local pharmacy, not to their doctor. European pharmacists diagnose and prescribe remedies for most simple problems. They are usually friendly and speak English, and some medications that are by prescription only in the US are available over the counter (and surprisingly cheap) in Europe. If necessary, the pharmacist will send you to a doctor or the local health clinic.
A visit to a clinic (or the emergency drop-in section of a hospital), while time-consuming, is actually an interesting travel experience. You'll sign in with the receptionist and answer a few questions, take a seat, and eventually meet your nurse or doctor. Every year I end up in a European clinic for one reason or another, and every time I'm impressed by the efficiency, effectiveness, and price. (Visits to the doctor at the neighborhood clinic are generally free — even for a traveler.)
If you're sick in your hotel and would rather not go out, the hotel receptionist can generally call a doctor who will make a house call. In this case, you'll be diagnosed, billed, and required to pay on the spot. Prescription in hand, you'll trudge off to the local 24-hour pharmacy, pick up the necessary medicine, and be on the mend pronto.
For traveling beyond Europe, getting an English-speaking and Western-trained doctor is a reasonable concern. In that case, consider joining IAMAT, the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers. You'll get a list of English-speaking doctors in member countries who charge affordable, standardized fees for medical visits (membership is free but a donation is requested, www.iamat.org, tel. 519/836-0102). Those needing IAMAT-type services, but who don't have a membership, can get referrals for medical help from other agencies that deal with Americans on the road (such as embassies, consulates, tourist offices, large hotels, and American Express offices).
What to Pack while travelling to europe.....
Shirts. Bring up to five short-sleeved or long-sleeved shirts in a cotton/polyester blend. Arrange mix according to season.
Sweater or Lightweight Fleece. Warm and dark is best — for layering and dressing up. Dark colors don't show wrinkles or stains.
Pants. Bring two pairs: one lightweight cotton and another super-lightweight for hot and muggy big cities and churches with modest dress codes. Jeans can be too hot for summer travel. Linen is great. Many like lightweight pants/shorts with zip-off legs. Button-down wallet pockets are safest (though still not as thief-proof as a money belt, described below).
Shorts. Take a pair with pockets — doubles as a swimsuit for men.
Swimsuit. Especially for women.
Underwear and socks. Bring five sets (lighter dries quicker).
One pair of shoes. Take a well-used, light, and cool pair, with Vibram-type soles and good traction. My wife and I like shoes by Ecco. Sturdy, low-profile tennis shoes with a good tread are fine, too. (Some people bring along an extra pair of sandals in case the shoes get wet.) For winter travel, bring heavy shoes (for warmth and to stay dry).
Jacket. Bring a light and water-resistant windbreaker that has a hood. Gore-Tex is good if you expect rain. For summer travel, I wing it without rain gear — but always pack for rain in Britain and Ireland.
Tie or scarf. For instant respectability, bring anything lightweight that can break the monotony and make you look snazzy.
*Money belt. It's essential for the peace of mind it brings. You could lose everything except your money belt, and the trip could still go on. Lightweight and low-profile beige is best.
Money. Bring your preferred mix of a credit card, debit card, an emergency stash of hard cash, and a couple of personal checks. I rely on a debit card for ATM withdrawals, a credit card, and $400 in cash as a backup.
Documents and photocopies. Bring your passport, airline ticket, railpass or car-rental voucher, driver's license, student ID, hostel card, and so on. Photocopies and a couple of passport-type photos can help you get replacements more quickly if the originals are lost or stolen. Carry photocopies separately in your luggage and keep the originals in your money belt. In your luggage, you'll also want to pack a careful record of all reservations (bring the hotels' written confirmations), along with a trip calendar page to keep things up-to-date as your trip evolves.
*Small daypack. This is great for carrying your sweater, camera, literature, and picnic goodies while you leave your large bag at the hotel or train station. Fanny packs (small bags with thief-friendly zippers on a belt) are a popular alternative, but are magnets for pickpockets and should never be used as money belts.
Camera. A digital camera and a high-capacity memory card mean no more bulky bags of film. A mini-tripod allows you to take crisp shots in low light with no flash.
Water bottle. The plastic half-liter mineral water bottles sold throughout Europe are reusable and work great. If you bring one from home, make sure it's empty before you go through airport security.
Wristwatch. A built-in alarm is handy. Otherwise, pack a small *travel alarm clock. Cheap-hotel wake-up calls are particularly unreliable.
Earplugs. If night noises bother you, you'll love a good set of expandable foam plugs.
First-aid kit.
Medicine and vitamins. Keep medicine in original containers, if possible, with legible prescriptions.
Extra eyeglasses, contact lenses, and prescriptions. Contact solutions are widely available in Europe. Because of dust and smog, many travelers find their contacts aren't as comfortable in Europe. Bring your glasses just in case.
Sunscreen and sunglasses. Depending on the season and your destination.
*Toiletries kit. Sinks in cheap hotels come with meager countertop space and anonymous hairs. If you have a nylon toiletries kit that can hang on a hook or a towel bar, this is no problem. Put all squeeze bottles in sealable plastic baggies, since pressure changes in flight can cause even good bottles to leak. (If you plan to carry on your bag, all liquids, gels, and aerosols must be in three-ounce or smaller containers, and all of these items must fit within a single, quart-size sealable plastic baggie.) Consider a vacation from cosmetics. Bring a little toilet paper or tissue packets (sold at all newsstands in Europe). Fingernail clippers and tweezers (for retrieving lost bank cards) are also handy. My Sonicare electric toothbrush holds a charge from home for 30 one-minute brushes.
Sealable plastic baggies. Get a variety of sizes. In addition to holding your carry-on liquids, they're ideal for packing leftover picnic food, containing wetness, and bagging potential leaks before they happen. The two-gallon jumbo size is handy for packing clothing. Bring extras for the flight home, as they can be hard to find in Europe.
*Soap. Not all hotels provide soap. A plastic squeeze bottle of concentrated, multipurpose, biodegradable liquid soap is handy for laundry and more. In the interest of traveling friendlier to our environment, I never use the hotel bathroom "itsy-bitsies," preferring my own bar of soap or bottle of shampoo.
*Clothesline. Hang it up in your hotel room to dry your clothes. The handy twisted-rubber type needs no clothespins.
*Small towel. You'll find bath towels at all fancy and moderately priced hotels, and most cheap ones. Although $50-a-day travelers will often need to bring their own towel, $100-a-day folks won't. I bring a thin hand towel for the occasional need. Washcloths are rare in Europe. While I don't use them, many travelers recommend *quick-drying synthetic towels.
Sewing kit. Clothes age rapidly while traveling. Take along a few safety pins and buttons.
*Travel information. Rip out appropriate chapters from guidebooks and staple them together. When you're done, give them away.
*Map. Get a map best suited to your trip's overall needs, then pick up maps for specific local areas as you go.
Address list. A list of email and mailing addresses will help you keep in touch. You can send mass emails as you go (bring a shrunk-down print-out of your email address book in case you can't access it online). Or if you prefer to send postcards, consider printing your mail list onto a sheet of adhesive address labels before you leave. You'll know exactly who you've written to, and the labels will be perfectly legible.
Postcards from home and photos of your family. A small collection of show-and-tell pictures is always a great conversation piece with Europeans you meet.
Small notepad and pen. A tiny notepad in your back pocket is a great organizer, reminder, and communication aid (for sale in European stationery stores).
*Journal. An empty book to be filled with the experiences of your trip will be your most treasured souvenir. Attach a photocopied calendar page of your itinerary. Use a hardbound type designed to last a lifetime, rather than a spiral notebook. The rugged, black, and simple Moleskine notebooks have a cult following among travel writers.
Optional Bring-Alongs
Picnic supplies. Bring or buy a small tablecloth to give your meal some extra class (and to wipe the knife on), salt and pepper, a cup, a *spoon, a washcloth (to dampen and store in a baggie for cleaning up), and a Swiss Army–type knife with a corkscrew and can opener (or buy the knife in Europe if you want to carry your luggage on the plane). A plastic plate is handy for picnic dinners in your hotel room.
*Packing cubes. These see-through, zip-up mesh containers keep your clothes tightly packed and well-organized.
*Clothes compressor. This handy invention — I like the one by Pack-Mate — allows you to pack bulky clothes (such as sweaters and jackets) without taking up too much space or creating wrinkles. Simply put the item in the bag, roll it up to force the air out through the one-way nozzles, and pack it away.
Nightshirt. Especially for women.
Light warm-up suit. Use for pajamas, evening lounge outfit, instant modest street wear, smuggling things, and "going" down the hall.
Spot remover. Bring Shout wipes or a dab of Goop grease remover in a small plastic container.
Sandals or flip-flops.
Slippers. On winter trips, I bring comfy slippers with leather bottoms — great for the flight and for getting cozy in my hotel room.
*Inflatable pillow (or "neck rest"). For snoozing in planes, trains, and automobiles. Many travelers also swear by an *eye mask for blocking out early-rising or late-setting sun.
Pillowcase. It's cleaner and possibly more comfortable to stuff your own.
Hair drier. People with long or thick hair appreciate a travel hair drier in the off-season, when hair takes a long time to dry and it's cold outside. These are generally provided in $100-plus hotel rooms.
*Hostel sheet. Hostels require one. Bring one along (choose silk or cotton), or rent a sheet at hostels for about $4 per stay. It doubles as a beach or picnic blanket, comes in handy on overnight train rides, shields you from dirty blankets in mountain huts, and will save you money in other dorm-type accommodations, which often charge extra for linen or don't provide it at all.
*Tiny lock. Use it to lock your backpack zippers shut. Note that if you check your bag on a flight, the lock may be broken to allow the bag to be inspected. You can improve the odds of your lock's survival by buying one approved by the TSA (Transportation Security Administration, the agency responsible for airport security). While you'll unlock the TSA-approved lock with a combination, security agents will be able to open the lock without damaging it by using a special master key.
*Small flashlight. Handy for reading under the sheets after "lights out" in the hostel, late-night trips down the hall, exploring castle dungeons, and hypnotizing street thieves. Tiny-but-powerful LED flashlights — about the size of your little finger — are extremely bright, compact, and lightweight.
MP3/video player, CD player, or radio. Partners can bring a Y-jack for two sets of earphones. Some travelers use digital recorders to capture pipe organs, tours, or journal entries. A small, portable radio adds a new dimension to your experience.
*Adapters. Electrical plugs.
Stronger light bulbs. You can buy these in Europe to give your cheap hotel room more brightness than the 40-watt norm.
Office supplies. Bring paper, an envelope of envelopes, and some sticky notes (such as Post-Its) to keep your place in your guidebook.
Small roll of duct tape.
Mailing tube. Great for art lovers, this protects the posters and prints you buy along your trip. You can trim it to fit inside your backpack (though this obviously limits the dimensions of the posters you can carry).
A good paperback. There's plenty of empty time on a trip to either be bored or enjoy some good reading. If you're desperate, popular English-language paperbacks are often available in European airports and major train stations (usually for far more than their North American price).
Insect repellent. Especially for France and Italy.
*Collapsible umbrella. I like one that's small and compact, but still sturdy and well-constructed enough to withstand strong winds.
Poncho. Hard-core vagabonds use a poncho — more versatile than a tarp — as protection in a rainstorm, a ground cloth for sleeping, or a beach or picnic blanket.
Gifts. Local hosts appreciate small souvenirs from your hometown (gourmet candy or crafts). Local kids love T-shirts and small toys.
Tips on Eating in Europe
Very often, Europeans think "vegetarian" means "no red meat" or "not much meat." If you are a strict vegetarian, you'll have to make things very clear. Write the appropriate phrase, keep it handy, and show it to each waiter before ordering your meal.
For inexpensive Italian eateries, look for the term osteria, tavola calda, rosticceria, trattoria, pizzeria, or "self-service." A meal-sized pizza (sold everywhere for under $7) and a cold beer is my idea of a good, fast, cheap Italian dinner. For a stand-up super bargain meal, look for a Pizza Rustica shop, which sells pizza by weight. Just point to the best-looking pizza and tell them how much you want (200 grams is a filling meal). They weigh, you pay. They heat it, you eat it.
University cafeterias (often closed during summer holidays) offer a surefire way to meet educated English-speaking young locals with open and stimulating minds. They're often eager to practice their politics and economics, as well as their English, on a foreign friend. This is especially handy as you travel beyond Europe.
In France, many cafes offer fixed-price meals such as a plat du jour or menu touristique. You'll get your choice of an appetizer, entre, and dessert at a set price. Service compris (s.c.) means the tip is included.
Eat hearty in Scandinavia, Europe's most expensive corner. Fill up at the breakfast smorgasbord (usually included in your hotel cost). Keep your eyes peeled for daily lunch specials called dagens ratt. If you order an entree, get extra vegetables (usually potatoes) by asking for seconds. The cheapest cafeterias often close at 5:00 or 6:00 p.m. Many pizzerias offer amazing all-you-can-eat deals and tempting salad bars. Fresh produce, colorful markets, and efficient supermarkets abound. Picnic!
At most European restaurants, the price of drinks can spoil your appetite. Ask for tap water in Britain, l'eau du robinet in France, Leitungswasser in Germany, acqua del rubinetto in Italy, and agua del grifo in Spain. In other countries, just do the international charade: hold an imaginary glass, turn on an imaginary tap, make the sound of running water, drink up, then smile.
In European groceries and open-air markets, most food is priced by the kilo (about two pounds). Watch the scales while your food is being weighed. It'll show grams, which are thousandths of a kilo. If cheese costs €5 a kilo, 200 grams (about a half a pound) is €1. In Italy, 100 gams (about a quarter-pound) is called an etto. Be careful. Specialty items are sometimes priced per 100 grams. Look for "kilo," "kg" (kilogram), or "100 grams" listed next to the price. Whether you understand the numbers or not, act as though you do. In European supermarkets, it's a snap to buy produce. Try the easy push-button pricing system. Put a banana on the scale, push the button that shows a picture of a banana (or the banana bin number), and a sticky price tag prints out. Voila!
In open-air markets throughout Europe, only shop at stalls that post prices. Tourists are routinely ripped off by market merchants in tourist centers. Find places that print the prices. Assume any market with no printed prices has a double price standard: one for locals and a more expensive one for tourists. In Europe, morning markets offer mountains of delectable fresh fruit. But you want only one or two pieces, and many merchants refuse to deal in small quantities. Roughly estimate the cost of what you want. Hold out the coins in one hand, the fruit in the other. Rarely will a vendor refuse your offer.
Milk-drinkers in Europe can check the carton for the local words for whole or light, such as voll or lett. Cold milk is rare in most countries. Avoid the "longlife" kind of milk, sold off the shelf, that needs no refrigeration. This milk will never go bad or taste good.